We are very pleased that the INSIGHTS exhibition will be on show at the Festival of Quilts, and the accompanying book will also be on sale. It has been a very strange time and the thought of going to see an exhibition is definitely something to look forward to, most of us have really missed those opportunities. TSG hope that you will be able to join us.
INSIGHTS is a reflection on creative practice in textile art. Through the publication and accompanying exhibition , the members of the Textile Study Group share their varied approaches to artistic practice: where ideas come from; how they develop and make work; where they work. All approaches are relevant, and differences are celebrated. INSIGHTS is edited by June Hill and Dr Melanie Miller, with additional essay contributions from Jane McKeating, Polly Binns, Claire Barber, Kay Greenlees and Lois Blackburn. The exhibition is curated by June Hill.
The Textile Study Group members’ work is varied in the themes addressed and techniques employed. Methods of work include hand stitch, machine stitch, quilting, constructed textiles, pieced textiles, lace-making, mixed-media, print, dye, sketchbooks and drawing, in both two and three dimensions. INSIGHTS includes work in progress and elements of process, as well as ‘finished’ work.
This week we are excited to have one of our newest members Polly Pollock talk about her fascinating practice.
I’ve been looking at several ongoing themes in my work over the past few years around homemaking and nurture, protection, damage and repair. I combine basketry and stitched textile techniques and work mainly with dyed paper yarns – I often use gentle ‘eco’ dyes which give soft and muted colour palettes. I like to add in scraps of other materials eg thread, string and yarns, raffia etc. often using up scraps of left-over materials from other pieces of work. I try to ensure in small ways to avoid contributing to the mounting levels of waste in the world today.
“Nests” are rounded basketry forms with subtle changes in colour, texture and form. Like a family, or community of weaver birds, these intimate, protective nest forms cluster together relating to each other, yet have individual strength to stand independently.
Recent ‘Nests’ are more complex and densely layered. The inclusion of knotted strands (referencing Quipus, ancient Andean accounting devices made from knotted yarns) represent recording and holding onto many positive moments within what at times are the seemingly impossible complexities of family relationships. These knotted strands also suggest the beautiful accents of colour and textures of lichens found on twigs birds collect to build their nests.
“Once in a While” is another ongoing project, which began from thinking about damage and repair. I include many paper yarns left over from making ‘Nests’ to make these pieces, forming threads of connectivity between these two distinct yet closely linked projects.
Seemingly random, each small piece explores weave and stitch, tensions and textures within a defined space. In addition the irregular ‘warp’ structures, and sometimes fragmented yet intricate weaving, suggests damage and wounds, but also becomes darning and repair. As well as symbolising the sometimes fragile internal functionings of home and family, within a chaotic external world, the individual pieces can stand alone; equally, when these pieces are displayed in a regular grid-like structure a sense of order and calm can be created.
It was very exciting to have “Once in a While” selected for the Vlieseline Fine Art Textiles Award.
I continue to explore these themes, and am beginning to investigate other basketry and textile techniques, but still making small “hand’ size forms which stand alone, or cluster together groups
We are nearly atthe end of our artists interviews, this being the penultimate one, with Amarjeet Nandhra. Hopefully you have enjoyed these posts and they have allowed you to gain a brief insight into the way TSG members think and work.
Amarjeet Nandhra Are the ideas/themes for this project ongoing or are they new ? The Insight project was more about recording the way we work rather than responding to a set brief. So there was a sense of freedom to follow my own pathway.Exploring my Indian heritage plays an important role in my work and for this project I continued to develop these ideas .Even when addressing a given topic, it is important that I find my voice and explore an angle that works for me, yet also fulfils the brief.
My research into the traditional Phulkari cloths from the Punjab, inspired this work. These magnificent cloths, with their striking colours and shimmering stitch, captivated me. However it wasn’t purely the seductive colours that enticed me, but also how the cloth was used to document everyday life. I wanted to understand what the stylised patterns meant, what the the colours represented and to unravel the stories behind these ancestral maps.
Using this research , I was inspired to createmy own interpretation of a fabric map; documenting my lifeand my social relationships. Just as the women did many years ago.
Although this work is a continuation and development ofprevious work, there was however, one big change…myuse of colour. Thegloriouscolour combinations within these cloths, filled me with joy and I became very excited at the thought of using colour again. In the past, my work used a very limited colour palette, lots of black, well I guess that is still present.
The use of black for me represents a strong powerful force, a bold statement …here I am. Yet it often has negative connotations;black mark, blackmail, black sheep.Life at the moment has thrown a spotlight on issues that I have grappled with for many years.Sometimes the weight of the anger and injustice becomes unbearable and the need to retreat to thecomforting and soothing world of cloth, colour and stitch beckons.
What is your favourite part of the creative process? I really enjoy the initial stages, getting consumed with the research, experimentingand sampling. The buzz of creating new ideas, the excitement and that feeling when your play takes you to a space that feels rights. An idea that leads you to a place that you hadn’t even imagined.
In the early stages, I want to explore all my ideas and have a tendency to add everything but the kitchen sink!There is a sense that I might lose out and the one idea that got away was the perfect one! The words I often repeat to myself are…pare back, select what is most important.
I sometimes find that I lose interest when I have reached a conclusion to my experiments and that producing the finished item can becomea little mechanical.
Once I have completed the work I rarely have any attachment to the piece and am ready to move on.I am never fully satisfied with the end outcome, wondering if I should have done something different. Some past pieces do get reworked and added to. I suppose that’s the nature of the game, to continue and strive to make that perfect piece!
Artists can be inspired by many things, nature , surroundings , memories and emotions .Sometimes a place that you experience a close connection to can be the source of continued exploration. In this weeks conversationGwen talks about walking along the coast shorelineandhow it is a multi-sensory experience, with constantly changing sounds, sights and smells.
I was born and raised by the sea, so the coast is where I feel I most at home. Once again, I live very close to the sea, and can regularly amble along the beach.
Walking on the shoreline is a multi-sensory experience, with constantly changing sounds, sights and smells.I am an inveterate collector of bits of ‘stuff’ that have been endlessly battered by tidal movements, some becoming my working materials, as I observe transformations brought about by natural forces. Drawings of marked and scarred surfaces, along with jotted working notes, form the basis for abstract designs
My work for Insights is a continuation and development of my on-going ideas and working processes. I tend not to have fixed ideas regarding resolved pieces of work, preferring to follow a path that allows for spontaneous diversions and side-tracks that can lead to unanticipated destinations.
I initially intended to concentrate solely upon the change and transformation of metal surfaces.My first work, ‘Material Change: Sculpture’ was concerned with the effects of repetitive immersion of cast iron in the sea, and I had planned to further develop emerging ideas and designs.However……..finding a child’s disintegrated leather shoe had a profound effect upon me, and I felt compelled to take my work in a new direction, that gave rise to ‘Material Change: Shoe’. This side-track led me to do a broad definition search on ‘flotsam and jetsam’ that gave disturbing results and deeper meaning to my work. The shoe, along with scraps of distressed fabric became an analogy for distressed people; this notion is expanded upon in Insights.
Hitherto, I have transferred colour and design onto cloth and paper by painting, dyeing or block printing. I had just started learning to use a press for collagraph intaglio printing, so this project was a good opportunity to try new ways of working, by developing observational drawings in an alternative way, and further drawing into them with stitch.Theory is one thing, and practice is another – it was, and continues to be a steep learning curve.I was not aiming for perfect traditional prints, which was just as well !
For the work based on cast iron, materials were stained and marked by steeping them with rusting metals, in bowls of sea water for a few days. I then began printing on the different weights of cloth and paper and exploring chine collé techniques.Prints were moved about until a satisfactory composition emerged, providing the basis for further drawing with simple stitch.‘Material Change; Shoe’ was created in a similar way, but without staining.
I have since embarked upon experimental Cyanotype prints, incorporating scraps of found cloth, and stitch. Trials are at an early stage – success is not guaranteed.
During lockdown, we have had glorious sunshine, and having used the salty sea to a to produce colour from rusting metals, I like the idea of harnessing the sun’s rays to activate applied chemicals to produce colour – a sort of sea and sun colouring fest…but we’ll see!
It’s good to try new approaches, and I enjoy exploring these printing processes, but am not sure where they will lead. However, I do know that needle and thread will continue to be important elements – I still need the comforting rhythms and the tactility of hand-stitching to feel at one with the work.